Cusco: The Pulse of Peru

Since stepping off the plane nearly two months ago, Peru has been an experience in nonstop sensory overload. From brighter colors to spicier flavors to manic drivers, the whole country seems to have the volume turned up. The air is saturated with the sounds of canons booming, bells clanging, horns blaring, dogs barking and people yelling on loud speakers around the clock. At this very moment, a city garbage truck is blasting a steel drum rendition of The Little Mermaid’s “Under the Sea.” Why? I don’t know. The question here seems to be, why not? Every aspect of life feels exaggerated in some way – especially to this solitude-loving Americana – though the vibe is definitely growing on me.

It’s impossible not to get swept up in Peru’s energetic pulse, and nowhere have I felt it more than in Cusco. Of the three cities we’ve briefly called home, Cusco – the oldest living city in the Americas – steals the show in authenticity and all around Peruvian street-game. With origins dating back over 3,000 years, the city is dripping in culture so rich even the tourism industry can’t overshadow it. The atmosphere is buzzing with lively plazas and sprawling local markets full of flowers and colorful shops. Local women dressed in traditional Andean clothing sit on every corner selling handmade sweaters, attracting tourists with fuzzy alpacas and adorable baby goats. Ancient stone passageways, cobblestone alleys, and fountain courtyards set beneath ornate cathedrals are nothing but pure eye-candy. But I’m not the only one who thinks so. With nearly 2 million visitors per year, Cusco is a mecca for tourists.

As we all know, with tourists come Starbucks, mediocre pizza restaurants and tour companies harassing you for attention, all of which suck the glamour right out of a place. This is definitely a risk in Cusco, but only if you follow the crowds. With a little guidance from other travel blogs, our trusty Lonely Planet and good old fashioned instincts, we found plenty of ways to carve out space to fully appreciate Cusco’s charm.

The answer, for us, was to go up. Cusco is nestled snuggly amidst the mountains at a whopping 11,152′, which means the only directions are up or down. The crowds are thinner the higher you go – likely due to the hundreds of quad-busting stairs it takes to get there. So, we put our Colorado lungs to use and stayed in the highest neighborhood we could find: the San Blas district, also known as the artisan’s quarter. We found all the best things about Cusco in San Blas – breathtaking views, cozy cafes, one stellar vegan restaurant, traffic-free cobblestone streets (most taxis won’t drive up there), and smaller, more peaceful versions of local markets and church plazas. And despite always being out of breath, I personally appreciated having a cardio workout built right in to my day – one less thing to worry about.

Below are pictures from our favorite experiences in Cusco – all great places to explore if you’re ever there for a visit.