Bahías por Días

I can tell I’m getting older by the things I now find interesting. For example, the fact that the city of La Paz sits in the Bay (bahía) of La Paz, which is nestled inside a larger bay (actually an enormous gulf) known as the Gulf of California, is quite fun for me to think about. During our recent road trip, we visited towns and beaches along the Bahía de Concepción, another bay tucked inside the gulf full of pristine playas in their own little bay-like nooks. Bays on bays for days is what I’m saying, and never have I been so intrigued by bodies of water. Perhaps it’s that I’ve been swept away by their breathtaking turquoise beauty and the juxtaposition of smooth, silky ripples against the rugged, prickly mountains of Baja California Sur. Or the way the water twists around cactus-lined cliffs revealing little coves inside rocky walls. While slightly embarrassing to admit, the entertainment I have derived from this landscape has been a true delight.

I’ve also been marveling at the rusty pink rock formations covering every hillside and mountain, creating little caves and crevices for extra eye-candy. Though all of Baja Sur is dry and dusty, there is still plenty of green which blends from pale sage to rich emerald the closer you get to the ocean. As we drove around the southern peninsula, we were surprised at the change in terrain, vegetation and even temperature in such a relatively small area; the average width from the Pacific coast to the gulf is just 60 miles. The one constant, as Charlie pointed out, is the Mexican giant cardón, or elephant cactus, which we mistook for saguaros, iconic in Arizona. You cannot look in any direction without seeing one, and some areas have so many it looks like a cacti forest teaming with pygmy owls and desert critters. It’s all been a real treat. During our longest drive of the road trip, I speculated for so long about fauna, tectonic plates, historical geology, dinosaurs and earth’s evolution we decided I had missed my calling as a geologist. Either that, or as previously mentioned, I am getting old.

With the end of our time here approaching, Charlie and I decided to finally use some vacation days, relax and enjoy it. My love for the open road and his penchant for exploring other towns meant a road trip was just the thing. We rented a car, put our out-of-offices on for an entire week and drove 300 miles north to Loreto, the oldest town in Baja California. Founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries, it was the first Spanish settlement on the Baja California Peninsula and served as the capital until 1777. Now it is every ex-pat fisherman’s paradise. For non-fisherman, the main attraction is a beautiful walking street lined with colonial buildings full of shops and restaurants. But the real highlight for us was the luxurious hotel pool complete with a wood-fired pizza restaurant and bar. We stayed four nights, spent our mornings excursioning to nearby attractions (pictured below), our afternoons chasing Cora around the pool and evenings eating pizza in the pool lounge chairs wrapped in fluffy white beach towels. It was just what we needed.

As we prepare to head home to Colorado this week, I’m feeling a renewed appreciation for adventure and stepping out of my comfort zone. The truth is that I felt resistant to packing up all our stuff, renting our house to strangers (again), leaving Minca (again), missing most of the summer hiking in Salida and adapting to a new place where my brain is constantly stretched by another language. I didn’t want to feel the discomfort of adjusting to everything all at once and my first few weeks here were mentally tough. I missed home, which is not something I’ve ever felt before. Maybe it’s finally loving where I live, maybe it’s settling deep into the rhythm of motherhood, maybe it’s just age, but it took some time for me to shake off this mindset and be fully present.

I’m so glad I did, because it’s not just about me anymore. Cora has had the time of her life, and the joy I feel from knowing what this has meant for her brings tears to my eyes. She may not remember it, but I know exposing her to new places, cultures and experiences from a young age will help shape her in all the right ways and set her up to be a future traveler. Not to mention, she is now bilingual and a pretty good swimmer, neither of which I expected from a 3 year old. Her dad (or papi, as she’s been calling him), however, never doubted any of it, and my heart is full of renewed appreciation for him as well. To have a partner that pushes our family to grow and keeps us moving while simultaneously making sure we are always safe and secure is something I do not take for granted. We have made some amazing memories together this summer. And it all makes returning home that much sweeter.